• CUT OUT CAN OPENER - Removes lid and makes it easier to remove contents.
• SPATULAS - For spreading materials.
• PAINT BRUSHES - Sizes to suit jobs
• ROLLER - To work out bubbles and insure saturation and thorough penetration.
• RUBBER SQUEEGEE - To spread resin on large flat surfaces evenly.
• CELLOPHANE - Aids in obtaining smooth finish, and may be removed after cure.
• CLAMPS - For use with PUTTY for exerting pressure while curing
• SCISSORS - For cutting cloth and mat.
• CLEANING FLUID - Nail Polish Remover, Turpentine, Banana Oil, or Ketone Solvents for cleaning
  hands and tools. Must be done before material cures on hands or tools.
• STRING - For tying mat or paper around patch while curing.
• STIRRING TOOLS - Wooden sticks or paddles.
• RUBBER GLOVES - For handling materials constantly.

• The Cordobond Strongback Method of maintenance and repair to materials and structures such as pipes,
  tanks, boats, weakened members, etc., consists of: Liquid resins combined with reinforcing materials of
  glass cloth, mat, tape and other reinforcing materials.
  
• Properties
  In use the Cordobond Strongback Method provides:

1. High Adhesion
2. Excellent vibration resistance
3. Good abrasion resistance
4. Diversity of use
5. High strength - Weight Ratio
6. Good alkali and acid resistance
7. Ease of application

1. Cordobond Strongback Resin and Activator
   
   1. Consist of two components, Resin and Activator, each separately packed. Resin container is
      Slack Filled to permit addition of activator for mixing in the resin container.
   2. When resin and activator are mixed as directed on the container labels, a chemical reaction
      takes place to produce a hard, tough, thermosetting resin.
   3. Activated resin is used to saturate high strength glass cloth, mat or tape to give impact, tensile
      and dimensional stability properties.
   4. The combination of activated resin with reinforcement as directed is used to make flat patches,
      pipe patches or intricate patches at joints, elbows and at pipe thread sections.
      
2. Cordobond Strongback Sealer
   
   1. Consists of three components, Resin, Activator and Short Inert Reinforcing Fibers, each
      separately packed. Resin container is Slack Filled to allow the addition of activator and
      reinforcing fiber for mixing in the resin container.
   2. When resin, activator and reinforcing fibers are mixed as directed on the container labels, a
      chemical reaction takes place to produce a tough, hard, reinforced synthetic resin.
   3. Activated resin with reinforcing fibers are used as a paste to seal weeping leaks and plug holes
      up to one inch, and if pressed in from one side of a hole, will produce a rivet plug type seal.
   4. Cordobond Strongback Sealer will cure in contact with water, oil, gasoline and a great
      many other liquids.
      
3. Cordobond Strongback Putty
   
   1. Consists of two components, Resin and activator, each separately packed. Resin container is
      Slack Filled to allow the addition of activator to be mixed with resin.
   2. When the activated resin is mixed with the activator by hand as directed, there is a progressive
      heat rise up to the point of desired consistency for use.
   3. The mixed combination of activated resin and reinforcement may be clamped over a leak with
      sufficient pressure to stop the flow of liquid or low pressure, low temperature steam. It will set
      up and bond to the metal even in the presence of oil, water, gasoline and many other liquids.
      
4. Cordobond Contour Cloth
   
   1. Consists of a glass fabric or cloth saturated with a cured rigid resin. Product comes in flat sheets
      that may be cut with tin snips to the size necessary for use over contours of pipe or flat surfaces where large holes exist. A patch is applied over the contour cloth and adheres strongly to it.

1. Patches that will have to stand pressure should always extend beyond the hole several inches.
   The larger the pressure the greater in area and thicker the patch should be. On a perfectly clean steel
   surface a patch can be counted on to stand 100 pounds per square inch, providing the patch is thick
   enough not to bend and tear away from the metal.
2. Resin and activator should not be mixed until it is actually ready to put in use since it sets up and cures rapidly. Mixing should wait until the surface is thoroughly prepared, and all other materials are ready for use.
3. In wrapping tape, excessive pressure should not be used, otherwise most of the activated resin will be squeezed out of the patch area.
4. Too much pressure should not be placed on the contour cloth over holes, otherwise the cloth might be pushed through, thereby losing its effectiveness.
5. All air bubbles should be worked out of patches and activated resin should thoroughly saturate cloth
   and mat layers as it is built-up.
6. Although these patching materials were originally conceived as emergency repairs, it has been found from experience that in many instances the repairs could be considered permanent.
7. Do not get the material in the eyes, on the skin or on the clothing. The precautions in handling the
   activator are similar to those for handling strong alkalis. Contact with the skin or eyes should be avoided,
   and the compound should not be taken internally. In case of contact, flush the affected areas with water
   that may be plain or acidified with vinegar.

• How to use CORDOBOND
  
• General Conditions for Patching
  
• Be sure all surfaces are clean and free of paint, oil and other contaminants.
  Adhesion of a Cordobond Strongback repair will be no stronger than the material with which it is in direct contact. For example, if a patch is applied over a painted surface, the adhesion will be no better than the paint itself.
  
  If hole is small, Standard Activated Resin and Glass Tape or Cloth will suffice.
  If hole is large, Contour Cloth should be applied first.
  If quick curing is desired, a saturated Glass Mat should be used in addition.
  If extra strength is required, one or more layers of Glass Mat or Cloth well saturated with Standard Activated
  Resin should be used.

• Resin and activator should not be mixed until you are ready to apply, since it sets up and cures rapidly. Mixing should wait until the surface is thoroughly prepared, and all o ther materials are ready for use.
• When all other preparations are made, simply pour the appropriate unit of the Activator into the Resin.
  There is room in the Resin container for both. Stir for at least one minute; they must be well mixed.
  Apply this Activated Resin promptly, in order to complete the patch.
• Patches that will have to stand pressure should always extend beyond the hole several inches.
  The greater the pressure, the larger in area and thicker the patch should be. On a clean steel surface,
  a patch can be counted on to stand 100 pounds per square inch, providing the patch is thick enough
  not to bend and tear away from the metal.
• Too much pressure should not be placed on the countour cloth over holes, otherwise the cloth might be pushed through, thereby losing its effectiveness.
• In wrapping tape, excessive pressure should not be used, otherwise most of the activated resin will be squeezed out of the patch area.
• All air bubbles should be worked out of patches and activated resin should thoroughly saturate cloth and
  mat layers as it is built up.
  
  By following the above procedures, repairs can generally be considered permanent.
  
  
  PRECAUTIONS
  
  Use in well-ventilated area. The vapors are harmful. Do not get the material in the eyes, on the skin, or on the clothing. The precautions in handling the activator are similar to those for handling strong alkalis. Contact
  with the skin or eyes should be avoided, and the compound should not be taken internally. In case of skin
  contact, flush the affected areas with water, which may be plain or acidified with vinegar. In case of eye
  contact, flush with water and get prompt medical attention.
  
  CAUTION: The activated resin in the can generates heat up to 400ºF when curing.

1. CURING TIME
   At 75ºF. Resin, Activator, Reinforcement and material to be covered, the curing time is as follows:
   1. One to two layers of cloth - 1 to 2 hours
   2. 4 layers of cloth - 1 hour
   3. 3 layers of cloth, 3 of mat 45 minutes

   At lower temperatures down to below zero (OºF) the material will be slower curing. In thin layers, time
   may be more than 24 hours, but it will cure. In thicker layers it will cure more rapidly, but such a variety of conditions makes it impossible to give time.
   

1. Cut a strip of reinforced glass mat wide enough to cover patched area and long enough to go twice
   around pipe at patch.
2. Lay this mat on old paper and pour enough activated resin on mat to saturate thoroughly.
3. Force this resin into all parts of the mat with stirring tool.
4. Wrap saturated mat around patch.
5. A layer of paper placed over the mat will prevent resin from dripping on floor while curing.
6. The use of this saturated mat on the patch should give a cure in about twenty mintues at 750F.
   It will of its own reaction develop about 250/300ºF. on the patched area and this should be allowed to
   cool down to room temperature prior to restoring service unless an emergency requires the line to be
   placed back in service immediately.

APPLICATION TO DUCTS

1. Follow procedure as outlined above.
2. Ducts are considered to be large and the flat patch technique will probably prove easier and
   more convenient.
   

FLAT PATCHES WHERE COMPLETE WRAP OF DUCT IS NOT NECESSARY

1. Follow procedure as outlined above, except that two pieces of mat are cut, both large enough
   to cover patch.
2. After saturation, both pieces of mat are laid over patch.
   
   USE OF EXTERNAL HEAT
   A fast cure may be obtained by heating with infrared bulbs, heating pads, electric heater or open flame held close to the patch, blow torch, etc. Any type of extra heat which is available will increase the speed of the cure.
   
   VISCOSITY CHANGES
   The viscosity of the material increases with low temperatures and decreases with high temperatures.
   To change viscosity in cool weather, warm the material slightly; to reduce the viscosity in hot weather,
   cool slightly.
   
   CLEANING MATERIALS
   Since the patching materials stick to practically everything (except vinylite, polyethylene, some types of rubber, and cellophane) don't put it into a good container for mixing. If a good container is used, do not fail to clean it prior to the unused material setting up. Good cleaners are Nail Polish Remover, Turpentine, Banana Oil or Ketone Solvents, all of which may be used for cleaning hands and tools. Cleaning must be done before material cures.
   
   SLACK FILLED CONTAINERS
   CORDOBOND Strongback materials are packed in "SLACK FILLED" containers in such a manner as to permit the addition of other ingredients and mixing within the container. While the container is not completely filled, and in
   some cases (i.e. SEALER) has very little resin in it, the correct amount of material by weight is present, but has
   been packed in an oversized container to provide a convenient mixing can when the activator and/or filler is
   added by pouring directly into the main container in accordance with instructions shown on such container.
   

1. The area to be patched should be as clean as possible and the area cleaned should extend beyond the
   area actually covered by the patch.
2. The cleaner the surface (no matter what the material) the better the bond will be.
3. The surface must be paint free. Paint has no real adhesion, but is a continuous film through which the CORDOBOND STRONGBACK cannot penetrate to reach the surface to which you want to bond, whether
   it is wood, metal, or some other material.
4. Where it is impossible to thoroughly clean a surface to be patched, remove as much of the foreign matter
   as possible; then apply a larger, thicker patch than would be normal. If there remains any small leak(s), another patch can be applied directly over such leaks in the original patch.

STRAIGHT PIPE
<back to top>

1. Refer to "Preparation of Surface to be Patched"

Materials needed for Patch

1. CORDOBOND STRONGBACK STANDARD RESIN and ACTIVATOR.
2. Glass Tape.
3. Working materials listed under " Simple Tools ."
4. Glass Mat (If rapid cure is desired without aid of external heat).

Method of Repairing Leak

1. After thoroughly mixing CORDOBOND STANDARD RESIN and ACTIVATOR, apply a liberal brush coat of activated resin to cleaned area, making sure that activated resin has flowed into pinholes or cracks.
2. Wind dry tape over painted area, applying slight pressure while winding.
3. Paint a second liberal coat of activated resin over tape, making sure to work resin into glass until air is forced out and glass is saturated thoroughly.
4. Wind a second layer of dry tape over painted area.
5. Paint another liberal coat of activated resin over tape as in (#3) above.
6. This procedure is repeated until at least four layers of tape have been applied and saturated thoroughly with resin.
7. The patch is now complete (See index for Curing Time) and should be cured and ready to be restored to service in about two to three hours, depending upon the temperature of the room and of the surface to which it was applied. (At 75ºF such a patch should take about two and one half hours to cure completely. If necessary to work at freezing temperatures, it may take over twenty?four hours to cure, but it will cure.
   

1. Refer to "Preparation of Surface to be Patched"
2. Old Pipe or flat surfaces with rust scale should be wire brushed or sand blasted to remove all particles of scale. A surface cleaned to bright metal provide the best conditions; however, successful patches can be applied over a surface where just loose scale and dirt have been removed.

1. CORDOBOND STRONGBACK STANDARD RESIN and ACTIVATOR
2. Glass Tape.
3. Contour Cloth. (Cut to extend approximately 1" beyond hole length ? wise of pipe and 2" to 2" beyond around circumference).
4. Glass Mat. (If rapid cure is desired without use of external heat).
5. Other working materials referred to in " Simple Tools. "

1. After thoroughly mixing CORDOBOND STRONGBACK STANDARD RESIN and ACTIVATOR, apply a liberal brush coat of activated resin to cleaned area, making sure that activated resin flows in well around edge of hole.
2. Apply activated resin to contour cloth and tie contour cloth over hole with string. Paint string and top of contour cloth again with resin.
3. Wind dry tape over painted area, applying slight pressure while winding.
4. Paint a second liberal coat of activated resin over tape, making sure to saturate thoroughly.
5. Wind a second layer of dry tape over painted area.
6. This procedure is repeated until at least four layers of tape have been applied and saturated thoroughly with activated resin.
7. The patch is now complete ( see index for Curing ).
   

1. Refer to "Preparation of Surface to be Patched"
2. The two broken ends of pipe should be filed down or cut back until they present an approximate contour of the original pipe.

1. CORDOBOND STRONGBACK RESIN and ACTIVATOR.
2. Glass Tape.
3. Contour Cloth (Cut a strip wide enough to span break and extend back on good pipe about 2" on a 2" pipe; larger pipe longer extension up to 6" on each end of 12" pipe, and long enough to make two complete turns of pipe with an additional 1" overlap on pipe up to 4"; on 4" to 6" pipe, 4 complete turns plus overlap)
4. Glass Mat (If rapid cure is desired without use of external heat).
5. Materials referred to in " Simple Tools. "

1. After thoroughly mixing CORDOBOND STRONGBACK STANDARD RESIN and ACTIVATOR, apply a liberal brush coat of activated resin to cleaned ends of severed pipe, back beyond area to be covered by contour cloth.
2. Apply a coat of activated resin to one side of contour cloth and wrap contour cloth so as to form a new pipe where break exists, extending back onto good pipe as shown above, depending upon size of pipe. Tie this contour cloth in place with string.
3. Apply a liberal brush coat of activated resin over contour cloth and beyond onto good pipe.
4. Wind dry tape over painted area, applying slight pressure while winding. This winding should extend back onto good pipe at each end about three inches beyond end of contour cloth.
5. Wind dry tape over painted area, applying slight pressure while winding. This winding should extend back onto good pipe at each end about three inches beyond end of contour cloth.
6. Wind a second layer of dry tape over painted area.
7. This procedure is repeated until at least four layers of tape have been applied and saturated thoroughly with activated resin on pipe up to 4" in diameter. 4" to 6" pipe should have six layers; 6" to 8" pipe, eight layers; and 8" to 12" pipe, ten layers.
8. In the case of large diameter severed pipe, cloth slit to the required width for the overall patch can be wrapped over void cover and saturated between each layer to replace tape.
9. The patch is now complete ( See index for Curing ).
   

1. Refer to "Preparation of Surface to be Patched"
   
   
   Materials Needed for Patch

1. CORDOBOND STRONGBACK STANDARD RESIN and ACTIVATOR.
2. Glass Cloth (Pieces cut on the bias from a large piece of cloth. These pieces should be large enough to extend about three inches beyond leak in all directions or more depending upon the size of the hole and pressure required. A minimum of three pieces should be used).
3. Glass Mat (If rapid cure is desired without aid of external heat).
4. Materials referred to in " Simple Tools. "
   
   
   Method of Repairing Leak

1. After thoroughly mixing CORDOBOND STRONGBACK STANDARD RESIN and ACTIVATOR, apply a liberal brush coat of activated resin to cleaned area making sure that resin gets into all pinholes and cracks.
2. Lay one piece of the glass cloth on wet resin and work down with fingers or roller until smooth. Work out any air pockets and keep cloth in good contact with pipe at all points.
3. Paint a second liberal coat of activated resin over glass cloth so as to saturate cloth thoroughly.
4. Lay another piece of glass over first, smoothing out with fingers or roller as done before with first layer.
5. Paint another layer of activated resin on second layer of glass cloth.
6. This procedure is repeated until at least three layers of cloth have been applied and saturated thoroughly with activated resin.
7. The patch is now complete ( See Index for Curing ).
   

1. Refer to "Preparation of Surface to be Patched"
2. The end. and top of fitting, as well as section of pipe near fitting should be wire brushed or sand blasted to remove all particles of scale. A surface cleaned to bright metal provides the best conditions; however, successful patches can be applied over a surface where just loose scale and dirt have been removed.
   
   
   Materials Needed for Patch

1. CORDOBOND STRONGBACK STANDARD RESIN and ACTIVATOR.
2. CORDOBOND STRONGBACK SEALER.
3. Glass Mat (If rapid cure is desired without use of external heat).
4. Materials referred to in " Simple Tools. "
   
   Method of Repairing Leak

1. After all threads, fittings, and pipe have been cleaned, thoroughly mix CORDOBOND STRONGBACK SEALER, adding enough filler to give you a good troweling consistency which will readily be forced into threaded area.
2. With the end of the stirring tool force a small amount at a time into the threads at joint of pipe and fitting. Keep adding more sealer until patch runs over top edge and out an inch or so onto the pipe.
3. After thoroughly mixing CORDOBOND STRONGBACK STANDARD RESIN and ACTIVATOR, paint a liberal coat over SEALER and back onto pipe and fitting.
4. Wind dry tape over painted area.
5. Paint a second coat of activated resin over tape making sure to saturate thoroughly.
6. The patch is now complete. ( See Index for Curing ).
   

1. Refer to "Preparation of Surface to be Patched"
2. The end and top of fitting, as well as section of pipe near fitting should be wire brushed or sand blasted to remove all particles of scale. A surface cleaned to bright metal provides the best conditions; however, successful patches can be applied over a surface where just loose scale and dirt have been removed.
   
   Material Needed for Patch

1. CORDOBOND STRONGBACK STANDARD RESIN and ACTIVATOR.
2. Glass cloth. Strips cut on the bias long enough to go down the face of fitting to pipe and out on pipe about 2".
3. Glass Mat (If rapid cure is desired without use of external heat).
4. Materials referred to in " Simple Tools ".
   
   Method of Repairing Leak

1. After thoroughly mixing CORDOBOND STRONGBACK STANDARD RESIN and ACTIVATOR, paint a liberal amount of the activator resin over cleaned area, allowing as much as possible to flow into threads.
2. Lay strips of glass cloth (Bias cut) into angle of fitting and pipe. It may be necessary to cut these in short lengths, allowing them to overlap. Get as close and neat a fit as is possible in threaded areas.
3. Paint a second coat of activated resin over glass cloth, making sure to saturate thoroughly all the cloth with great care where overlap has occurred.
4. Apply a second layer of dry glass cloth strips cut on the bias in the same manner as the first.
5. Apply a third coat of activated resin over cloth.
6. This procedure is repeated until three layers of cloth have been applied.
7. When three layers of cloth have been applied, wind tape over entire patch and paint with activated resin. Two or three layers of tape should be applied over cloth, making sure to saturate thoroughly with resin.
8. The patch is now complete ( See Index for Curing ).
   

1. Refer to "Preparation of Surface to be Patched"
2. Old ducts with rust scale or dirt should be wire brushed to remove all particles of scale. A surface cleaned to bright metal provides the best conditions; however, successful patches can be applied over a surface where just loose scale and dirt have been removed.
   
   
   Material Needed for Patch

1. CORDOBOND STRONGBACK STANDARD RESIN and ACTIVATOR.
2. Glass Tape
3. Glass Mat (if rapid cure is desired without use of external heat).
4. Materials referred to in " Simple Tools ."
   
   
   Method of Repairing Leak

1. After thoroughly mixing CORDOBOND STRONGBACK STANDARD RESIN and ACTIVATOR, apply a liberal brush coat of activated resin to cleaned area, making sure that activated resin has flowed into cracks or pinholes.
2. Wind dry tape over painted area, applying slight pressure while winding.
3. Paint a second liberal coat of activated resin over tape making sure to saturate thoroughly.
4. Wind a second layer of dry tape over painted area.
5. Paint another liberal coat of activated resin over tape.
6. This procedure is repeated until at least two layers of tape have been applied and are thoroughly saturated with activated resin.
7. If area is large, use flat patch procedure.
8. See Index for Curing .
   

1. Refer to "Preparation of Surface to be Patched"
2. The area adjacent to the break should be wire brushed to remove all particles of scale or dirt. A surface cleaned to bright metal provides the best conditions; however, successful patches can be applied to surfaces where just loose scale and dirt have been removed.
   
   
   Material Needed for Patch

1. CORDOBOND STRONGBACK STANDARD RESIN and ACTIVATOR.
2. CORDOBOND STRONGBACK SEALER.
3. Glass Cloth (Pieces cut on the bias from a large piece of cloth. These should be large enough to extend about 2" in all directions beyond leak. From one to four pieces are needed depending upon the pressure, abrasion or corrosion involved).
4. Materials referred to in " Simple Tools. "
   
   
   Method of Repairing Leak

1. Open holes or cracks where ductwork is missing.
2. After defective area has been cleaned, thoroughly mix CORDOBOND STRONG BACK SEALER, adding enough filler to give a good troweling consistency which will readily spread over openings.
3. With the stirring tool, spread the SEALER over break, allowing the SEALER to go into holes. Keep adding SEALER until a mass of about one half inch is built up over leak and smoothed out thin at edge of patch. This may be sufficient to repair duct, but if added strength is desired or thought necessary, continue with the following steps.
   1. Thoroughly mix CORDOBOND STRONGBACK STANDARD RESIN and ACTIVATOR. Paint a liberal coat of the activated resin over SEALER and beyond edge of patch.
   2. Lay one piece of glass cloth on wet resin and work down with fingers or roller until smooth. Work out any air pockets and keep cloth in good contact with SEALER and duct.
   3. Paint a second liberal coat of activated resin over glass cloth so as to saturate thoroughly. Additional layers of cloth and resin may be added, but this should be sufficient for the average leak.
4. The patch is now complete ( See Index for Curing ).
   

1. Refer to "Preparation of Surface to be Patched"
2. Old duct work should be wire brushed to remove all particles of scale. A surface cleaned to bright metal provides the best conditions; however, successful patches can be applied over a surface from which just loose scale and dirt have been removed.
   
   
   Material Needed for Patch

1. CORDOBOND STRONGBACK STANDARD RESIN and ACTIVATOR.
2. Glass Cloth (Cut on the bias, large enough to extend from about three inches above joint, out over the joint, and down again onto duct another three inches).
3. Materials referred to in " Simple Tools ."
   
   
   Method of Repairing Leak

1. After thoroughly mixing CORDO?BOND STRONG?BACK STANDARD RESIN and ACTIVATOR, apply a liberal brush coat of activated resin to cleaned area three inches above joint and three inches below, making sure that resin flows into joint of duct.
2. Lay a strip of the bias cut glass cloth over painted area so as to fit smoothly over flange or joint and in good contact with duct above and below joint.
3. Smooth out any air pockets that may appear with your fingers or roller. It may be necessary to cut cloth into smaller pieces to have it conform neatly. If so, be sure to apply plenty of activated resin where overlap occurs.
4. Paint a second coat of activated resin over the cloth making sure to saturate thoroughly all points with extra care in areas where overlaps have occurred.
5. Lay a second layer of dry cloth over wet resin in the same manner as the first layer of dry cloth wet resin in the same manner as the first layer and paint again, as was done following the first layer of cloth.
6. Two layers of cloth and resin should be enough for most uses, however, if additional strength is needed, more cloth and resin may be applied in the same manner as were the first two.
7. The patch is now complete ( See Index for Curing ).
   

1. Refer to "Preparation of Surface to be Patched"
2. The riveted or welded seams should be sandblasted or scraped down to bright metal with all paint and rust removed. Successful patches can be applied over a paint free surface where just loose scale and dirt have been removed.
   
   
   Material Needed for Patch

1. CORDOBOND STRONGBACK SEALER.
2. Rags
3. Material referred to in " Simple Tools. "
   
   
   Method of Repairing Leak

1. After a sufficient area around leak has been cleaned (approximately 3" on all sides), determine exact point of weep.
2. Thoroughly mix CORDOBOND STRONGBACK SEALER.
3. If tank is weeping, it should be wiped with a rag just before applying the SEALER.
4. Force a small amount of the SEALER with a putty knife or fingers into area of leak. Continue to add SEALER, spreading it out for a distance of two to three inches in all directions from center of weep, and building up a thickness of approximately 1/2" directly over weep. Once the SEALER is applied, the oil will have a tendency to push straight out rather than seep between the SEALER and tank.
5. Where the oil is weeping badly, it may be necessary to allow SEALER to start to "set up" thus becoming stiffer and offering more resistance to oil when applied.
6. It is important that the SEALER be applied a little at a time, starting directly over the weep. In this way the chance of air pockets is greatly reduced.
7. The patch is now complete. ( See Index for Curing ).
   

1. Refer to "Preparation of Surface to be Patched"
2. The area of the leak should be sandblasted or wire brushed down to a bright metal, with all paint and rust scale removed. Successful patches can be applied over a paint free surface where only loose scale and dirt have been removed.
   
   
   Material Needed for Patch

1. CORDOBOND STRONGBACK STANDARD RESIN and ACTIVATOR.
2. Glass Cloth.
3. Materials referred to in " Simple Tools ".
   
   
   Method of Repairing Leak

1. Thoroughly mix CORDOBOND STRONGBACK RESIN and ACTIVATOR.
2. Apply a liberal coat of the activated resin over cleaned area, making sure that some of the resin flows down into the pinholes.
3. Lay a piece of glass cloth over the wet resin and work gently with fingers or roller. Smooth the cloth down, making sure you remove any air pockets that may exist.
4. Paint a second liberal coat of activated resin over dry cloth, saturating thoroughly.
5. A final coat of activated resin applied after patch has set up insures a tight patch.
6. If it is felt that there will be any great amount of pressure against the patch, it may be necessary to use more than one layer of cloth. More layers of cloth may be applied using the same procedure as used on the first, while the patch is still wet or after it has cured.
7. The patch is now complete. ( See Index for Curing ).
   

1. Refer to "Preparation of Surface to be Patched"
2. The area of the leak should be sandblasted or wire brushed down to a bright metal, with all paint and rust scale removed. Successful patches can be applied over a paint free surface where only loose scale and dirt have been removed.
   
   
   Material Needed for Patch

1. CORDOBOND STRONGBACK SEALER.
2. Materials referred to in " Simple Tools. "
   
   
   Method of Repairing Leak

1. After a sufficient area around leak has been cleaned (approximately 3" in all directions) thoroughly mix CORDOBOND STRONGBACK SEALER, adding enough filler to give it good troweling consistency.
2. Spread this mix, a small amount at a time, over the leak, allowing it to be forced down into the holes.
3. Building up a thickness of approximately 1/2" over the hole, fair off around edges to give a smooth bond to the top of the tank.
4. The patch is now complete. ( See Index for Curing ).
5. If it is felt that additional strength is needed, a layer of glass cloth and CORDOBOND STRONGBACK STANDARD RESIN and ACTIVATOR may be applied at any time, over the SEALER as described under directions for repair of pinholes leaks in Storage Tank Roofs.
   

1. Refer to "Preparation of Surface to be Patched"
2. The area of the leak should be sandblasted or wire brushed down to a bright metal, with all paint and rust scale removed. Successful patches can be applied over a paint free surface where only loose scale and dirt have been removed.
   
   
   Method of Repairing Leak

1. In this case use Contour Cloth in one, two or three layers with resin in between each layer, depending upon the size of the hole, to bridge the gap and prevent the resin saturated cloth from falling through the hole. For example, if the hole is 12" in diameter:
   1. Cut the contour cloth (two thicknesses) about 2" larger all around the hole. If the hole is irregular, follow the same approximate dimensions to shape.
   2. Clean the surface one foot back from edge of hole in all directions.
   3. Paint surface liberally with activated resin.
   4. Put activated resin between the two pieces of contour cloth, making sure there is a continuous film between them.
   5. Lay the pieces of contour cloth on the painted surface of the tank.
   6. Brush additional activated resin over them.
   7. Cut cloth to extend about 7" on all sides beyond the contour cloth.
   8. Lay out cloth over resin covered area and smooth it out with fingers or roller, being sure to work out all air pockets.
   9. Paint on additional resin and add another layer of cloth following same rules as above.
   10. Next cut two pieces of reinforced mat, same size as the cloth.
   11. Saturate each of these separately and thoroughly with activated resin and lay one on the cloth followed by the other, pressing or rolling them flat, but not using such force as to push the contour cloth through the hole.
2. Roll a piece of cellophane onto the top and allow to remain. This will produce an improved surface.
3. The patch is now complete. ( See Index for Curing ).
   

1. Refer to "Preparation of Surface to be Patched"
2. Old pipes should be wire brushed to remove all particles of scale. A surface cleaned to bright metal provides the best conditions; however, successful patches can be applied to surfaces from which only loose scale and dirt have been removed.
   
   
   Material Needed for Patch

1. CORDOBOND STRONGBACK PUTTY.
2. Working Materials referred to in "Simple Tools."
3. If pipe is leaking, or leak is in thread area, some type of clamping device is necessary to force PUTTY into leak and hold it against the pressure of the line until it cures. When a clamp is used, a barrier such as contour cloth should be placed between clamp and PUTTY to the end that the clamp may be recovered after patch has cured.
   
   
   Method of Repairing Leak

1. On Line which is not leaking
   1. After thoroughly mixing CORDOBOND STRONGBACK PUTTY, force a small amount at a time into crack or hole, making sure that it is forced well into break.
   2. Smear out the edges of the PUTTY to form a riveted effect. A mass about 1/2" over hole and faired off in all directions should give a successful patch with average pressures up to a few hundred pounds.
   3. This patch is now complete and should be cured for about three hours at 750F. (See Index for Curing).
2. On Line which is leaking
   1. When pipe or container is leaking, pressure on, wipe area of leak with rag to remove excess oil, water, etc.
   2. Place activated PUTTY on a piece of contour cloth.
   3. With the aid of a clamp shaped to the size of the pipe, place PUTTY over leak with contour cloth next to the clamp.
   4. Tighten in place, forcing PUTTY into leak until flow stops. Leave clamp in place until PUTTY cures.
3. For higher pressure; a reinforcing patch of wrapped tape or a flat patch covering large areas may be placed over the initial PUTTY patch, with CORDOBOND STRONGBACK STANDARD RESIN and ACTIVATOR.